A birthday note to Madras: The city that is shaped by its arts

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(Clocwise from far left) T.N. Krishnan; Chitra Visweswaran; Karaikudi Mani; M.S. Subbulakshmi; Balasaraswati; Vyjayantimala; Padmini; Vikku Vinayakaram; K.V. Narayanaswamy and Chandralekha. | Photo Credit: Imaging by XJG Satheesh

Madras may be 387 years old, but who doesn’t like to be celebrated on their birthday? Over the years, especially in the age of social media, the days leading up to August 22 have grown increasingly exciting, with residents finding newer ways to tell the city’s story. The outpouring of love is evident in the many heritage walks, talks, exhibitions and concerts that uncover lesser-known facets of Madras, reminding us that it is more than just a place on the map.

Few cities wear their artistic identity as proudly as Madras. From Carnatic music and Bharatanatyam to theatre, literature, cinema and fine art, its cultural landscape has been shaped by generations of visionary creators. As Madras grows another year older, its artistic traditions and cultural institutions offer a window into its spirit.

My own understanding of that spirit began in 1996, the year Madras became Chennai, when I first arrived here. Neighbours and friends in the North warned that the move would be a social climb-down. But I soon discovered that Chennai offered something else: a cultural world that felt, in many ways, richer.

Ever since my school days, I had dreamt of escaping the freezing winters of the North and experiencing the warmth of music during Chennai’s Margazhi, when the city turns unusually breezy and cool. It was also the time when you could spot the finest pattu saris and impeccably draped veshtis. While people across the country geared up to end the year in pomp and style, for Chennaiites, it marked the beginning of a new Season.

What struck me most about Chennai’s kutcheri culture was its lack of pretension. The focus was firmly on the music. Interestingly, conversations at family gatherings and friendly get-togethers revolved not around fashion trends or food, but around who had sung Abheri or Kalyani best or which dancer had drawn a full house.

I soon understood that in this city, art was not merely entertainment; it was a way of life. So, in 2017, when Chennai was included in UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network for its contribution to the performing arts, it only affirmed what residents had long known.

While deeply protective of its artistic traditions, the city has never prevented its artistes from questioning conventions, broadening their horizons and engaging with their art on their own terms.