Why this is one of the most daunting venues the Wallabies have played at

The Wallabies have swapped Recoleta, one of the chicest neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires, for the mountainous north-west of Argentina for Sunday’s (5am AEST) clash with the Pumas.

The flight from the capital to Jujuy takes just over two hours, but the team will arrive in a place unlike anywhere they have been before. The city is historically defined by rebellion as the inhabitants refused to conform to the will of unwelcome visitors.

Spanish colonial forces took three attempts to establish a settlement there due to ferocious resistance from the indigenous people. In 1593, the Spanish eventually succeeded in building a city, but a legacy of resistance existed within the local population.

The city’s crumbling stadium, which will host the Wallabies and the Pumas, takes its name from the next major act of rebellion that would define the city.

The Estadio 23 de Agosto (August 23) commemorates the date in 1812 during the Argentine War of Independence.

At that time, General Manuel Belgrano knew that the advancing Spanish forces were too strong for his resistance, so he ordered that the city of Jujuy be evacuated. Residents embraced a “scorched earth” policy: crops, homes and businesses were destroyed. It was simply not possible to conquer Jujuy by force.

More than 200 years later, sport continues to give the city an outlet for its rebellious spirit. Estadio 23 de Agosto is home to soccer team Gimnasia de Jujuy. Three years ago, with the team losing 1-0 to local rivals Riestra, and their promotion hopes hanging by a thread, fans invaded the pitch to confront referee Lucas Comesana and the game was suspended.

Last year, the same referee was confronted at the same stadium during a game against Deportivo Madryn. Police intervened, but Comesana again suspended the game.

Jujuy is not a traditional rugby powerhouse in Argentina, unlike the neighbouring regions of Tucuman and Salta that have provided a consistent conveyor belt of tough Pumas forwards.

The city has only hosted two Pumas Tests, both victories, against Georgia in 2017 and in 2022 under incoming Waratahs coach Michael Cheika against Scotland.

Unlike the Wallabies, the Pumas have based themselves in Jujuy for more than a week, not only training at 1259 metres above sea level, but embracing the city. Rugby has dominated the local media for the past week.

Last Saturday, the Pumas hosted an open training session in Estadio 23 de Agosto, attended by thousands of locals, and the team has been busy holding coaching clinics for children in the city, alongside visiting local landmarks, including “the hill of seven colours”, which changes shades of red depending on the light.

The charm offensive from the Pumas is admirable, and might be necessary; the team must feed off the energy of the city. The Pumas have been decimated by injuries and the unavailability of 22 players for this contest.

The Pumas are facing a Wallabies team buoyed by two wins over Japan and a victory over Italy, who are determined to maintain momentum under new coach Les Kiss.