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“And here are your Cheezels,” says a cheerful waiter, putting down a box of the popular ring-shaped snack. It’s a sign they’re doing things differently here. The other major distinction between this 60-seat bistro and just about every other place in Melbourne is that a bowl of Napoletana with herb oil starts at $6. The menu is mostly pasta with simple sauces.

Spaghetti comes with anchovy, tuna, chilli and capers; garlicky mushroom is cooked out with white wine. Rigatoni is rumbled with bolognese or herby pesto. You can stick to nibbles too, building a fridge-rummage of chunky pickles, hard cheese, olives, ricotta and the like, or letting the chefs turn it into an easygoing snack plate.

It’s a whole lot of “why not?” here. Those Cheezels. Half portions. Jugs of punch and prosecco on tap. Clams because they’re abundant and cheap this week. It’s a happy meeting place between money and mouth.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.